Moss can be a major problem for lawns in our cool, damp climate. A healthy lawn that gets enough sunlight can outcompete moss. But it is difficult to banish moss entirely.
Option: Moss control treatment
If you would like, we can apply a moss control treatment to your lawn. We use iron sulphate to burn the moss, turning it black. Iron will dehydrate moss but will not kill it.
You will need to remove the moss with a thatching rake once it shrivels up and turns black. If it is not removed, it will continue to spread and grow more thickly. You should rake vigorously to loosen the moss and remove it from the lawn. If you have a large lawn, you may want to rent a power rake.
If your lawn has a severe case of moss, raking may leave large bare spots. In this case, we can give you a bid for reseeding, topdressing with compost and applying AxisDE.
Summer watering is important
Moss control treatments will not be successful if you allow your lawn to go dormant in the summer. If your lawn gets too dry, it can get thin and weak. This provides ideal conditions for moss and weeds to invade in the fall when the rains return.
To help your lawn stay healthy, it needs about an inch of water per week. Water once or twice a week, not every day. And water slowly and deeply so the lawn develops deep roots. See more about smart lawn watering in this video.
Long-term solution: Improving lawn health
Our natural lawn care services will improve the health of your lawn. But if your lawn has underlying problems or it is in the wrong location, moss will grow better than grass will. You need to address the root causes.
Compacted soil. If your soil is compacted, it’s tough for grass to grow. Aeration will help your lawn roots gain access to air, water and fertilizer. We are currently aerating lawns for our clients and overseeding to fill in any thin spots.
Infertile. Your lawn needs nutrients to grow more thickly so it can compete with moss and weeds. We fertilize our clients’ lawns with an organic fertilizer. This feeds the lawn slowly over time. If you mulch mow, it can supply a quarter to half of your lawn’s nitrogen needs.
Acidic and/or low in calcium. Many soils in western Washington are acidic and may be also be low in calcium. These are poor conditions for lawns. We apply Dolopril lime as needed, which contains both calcium and magnesium.
Wet. If you have a problem with drainage, you will also have problems with moss. If needed, we could fix drainage onto the lawn from the driveway or sidewalk. We could also alter the slope or fill in low spots that tend to stay wet.
Shade. Grass needs regular sunlight to grow well. It doesn’t tolerate heavy shade. We can prune your trees to allow more sunlight to reach shady spots and to improve air circulation.
The best option for shady areas may be to replace the lawn with a shade garden. Our designers would be happy to work with you to create a garden of shrubs, grasses, ferns and perennials that thrive in the shade.
Contact us if you would like to learn more about our natural lawn care and landscape design and installation services.
I have used your services for over the last 15+ years. Aeration hasn’t worked moss control killer has not done well. I wonder if you could state simply whether you need 1 inch per sq ft of lawn or only where the moss grows. Aside from the fact of what constitues a good mesuring device ie an empty tuna can- Thanks
Thank you for your comment. I am sorry that aeration and moss control have not worked well for your lawn. We work to help our clients’ lawns stay healthy, and many people tell us they are happy with their lawns.
At the same time, the fact is that our cool, damp climate favors moss over grass. Do you have any issues with shade or drainage? We can help with those. Are you mulch mowing? That helps build lawn health.
Are you watering enough in summer? We no longer suggest letting lawns go dormant. As our summers have gotten hotter and drier, grass really needs regular water to stay healthy.
Your entire lawn needs an inch of water a week. Did you watch the short video that we linked from the blog? It shows and explains how to use tuna cans to measure your sprinkler output.